Viscose fabric, known for its silky texture and fluid drape, is a popular choice for creating elegant garments. However, its slippery and delicate nature can make it tricky to sew. With the right preparation, tools, and techniques, sewing viscose can become a rewarding and enjoyable experience. This guide will take you through everything you need to know about sewing viscose fabric, from cutting to finishing.
What You’ll Need for Sewing Viscose
Before you begin, make sure you have the following essentials:
- Viscose Fabric: Choose a high quality viscose fabric for your sewing project
- Thread: Choose a 100% polyester or polyester blend thread to complement viscose’s semi-synthetic composition.
- Cutting Tools: Use sharp dressmaking scissors or a rotary cutter and mat for precision.
- Pins or Weights: Fine straight pins or pattern weights to stabilise the fabric.
- Sewing Needles: A sharps machine needle (70/10) or sharp ballpoint needle (75/11) for sewing, and sharps hand-sewing needles for tacking or hand finishing.
Cutting Viscose Fabric
Viscose is lightweight and slippery, so cutting requires extra care to achieve precise results.
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Use Sharp Tools
A rotary cutter paired with a self-healing mat works best to achieve clean, accurate cuts. If you’re using scissors, ensure they are sharp and lay the fabric on a flat surface. -
Secure the Fabric
Prevent slippage by using a combination of fine pins and pattern weights to hold the fabric in place. The added stability ensures you achieve accurate cuts. -
Try the Tissue Paper Trick
If the fabric moves excessively, place a sheet of tissue paper beneath it. This trick adds grip and reduces movement during cutting.
How to Sew With Viscose Fabric
With the right techniques, sewing with viscose can be straightforward:
Choosing the Correct Needle
- For machine sewing, use a sharps needle (70/10) or a sharp ballpoint needle (75/11) to avoid snagging.
- For hand sewing or tacking, opt for fresh sharps needles to ensure they glide smoothly through the fabric.
Selecting Thread
Use polyester or polyester-blended thread. This choice matches the semi-synthetic nature of viscose, making your seams durable and ensuring easier aftercare.
Tips for Machine Sewing
- Stitch Length: A standard stitch length of 2.5mm works well for most viscose projects. Always test stitches on a fabric scrap first.
- Prevent Slippage: If the fabric shifts while sewing, try using a walking foot. Secure the layers with plenty of pins or clips but remember to remove them before sewing.
Finishing Viscose Fabric
Viscose frays easily, so finishing raw edges is essential to prevent unraveling.
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Overlocking or Zigzag Stitch
The best way to finish seams is by overlocking them. If you don’t own an overlocker, use the zigzag function on your sewing machine to reduce fraying. - Hemming
For hems, choose a single-fold, blind hem to retain the lightweight, flowing properties of viscose. This approach keeps the fabric’s drape intact while providing a neat finish.
Additional Tips for Working with Viscose
- Pre-Wash Your Fabric
Viscose shrinks when washed, so always pre-wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. This step ensures your garment retains its intended size and shape after completion.
- Use Lightweight Interfacing
If your project requires interfacing, opt for a lightweight version to avoid stiffening the fabric’s natural drape. Apply the interfacing before cutting your pattern pieces to make the fabric easier to handle.
- Take Your Time with Pins and Weights
Combining pins and pattern weights helps stabilise the fabric during cutting and sewing. While this step takes extra time, it ensures a polished, professional result.
- Avoid Skipped Stitches
If your machine struggles with skipped stitches, double-check your needle size and sharpness. A fresh needle suited for lightweight fabrics can make all the difference.
Explore Our Viscose Fabric Collection
Viscose is perfect for creating flowing dresses, skirts, and blouses. Browse our viscose fabric range to find the perfect fabric for your next sewing project. With a variety of prints and colours available, we have something to suit every style and occasion.
